1. Veneer mounting on the carcass flooring
In this case the veneer thickness must be not less then 18 mm. The carcass step (the distance between bars) must not be longer than 300 mm. The distance between the veneer sheets must be 3 mm and the distance from the walls must be 10 mm. The veneer sheets should be laid alternately. The bars must be mounted along the perimeter of the floor. The double carcass flooring may be mounted if necessary. Between the carcass flooring the wadding or claydite (must be perfectly dried) should be placed. The carcass must not be covered with polyethylene film before the veneer laying because the film blocks the circulation of air. The veneer and bar humidity must be between seven and nine percent (be careful not to spill water-containing materials on the floor during painting or tiling) or otherwise the 8%-damp parquet will deform and change its shape (due to the absorbing and loosing by the water defects appear).

2. Veneer mounting on a concrete or wooden floor:
The veneer sheets are attached to the concrete floor by the use of anchors (at least twelve anchors per one square meter). The distance between the veneer sheets must be 3 mm and the distance from the walls must be 10 mm The veneer sheets should be laid alternately. The concrete and veneer humidity should not be higher then 9% because due to the absorbing and loosing by the water defects appear. The air-proof (ruberoid or polyethylene film) and/or paddy materials (theywill squeak) should not be placed between the veneer and the concrete.

Old wooden floors
• The most simple way to prepare the floor is to dismantle it and to lay the new one (see “Veneer”, paragraph 1). Some of the dismantled materials may be reused as well. The block parquet must not be laid on the old boards because cracks will appear. If there are not any other options and if the level of the old boards allows it then veneer at least 15 mm thick should be laid on the old flooring. In this case it should be taken into consideration that the floor will not be perfectly level but this will be visually imperceptible and will be seen only near the plinth (plinth-wall and floor level tube). Some problems may arise when it comes to leveling the furniture.

Warm (concrete) floor
• The one-piece parquet may be laid onto concrete by the use of glue on a synthetic resin or polyurethane base (recommended brands: Kiilto,Uzin,Mapei). In this case the concrete floor must be perfectly leveled at the very beginning or otherwise the floor will not be level and one will have to use self-leveling mixtures and to follow the following requirements:
1. The concrete must be ground down (about two millimeters),
2. A special prime coating for concrete floors must be used (one must not use coats which are intended for plaster-containing surfaces),
3. The self-leveling mixture must not contain plaster (recommended brands: Mapei,Vetonit,Mira).
We suggest laying the three-level block parquet.

Gypsum plasterboard floor
• The one-piece parquet must not be laid on a gypsum plasterboard floor leveled by use of claydite. If there are no other options then at least a 15mm think veneer should be glued and screwed to the floor.
The three-level block parquet may be laid on the gypsum plasterboard floor.

One-piece parquet, parquet boards
• The humidity of the one-piece parquet and parquet boards must be between six and nine percent. Therefore it is important to buy parquet at companies that specialize in this sphere and store the material at specialized warehouses with a microclimate. When you buy parquet you should ask the seller to measure the humidity and geometry (the allowable variations are 0.02 mm) of the parquet. If the seller does not have the necessary instruments then the company staff competence and material origin and quality are doubtful. We do not recommend buying the parquet and then have it delivered to a place where filling and painting works are in progress because there is an increased humidity level in such areas. The parquet must not be stored unpacked at the object (this does not refer to the process of laying itself) because it will deform and crack in three months after laying. The grinding and varnishing must be performed not later then within three days from when the parquet is laid. The parquet cannot be filled, tiled and laid simultaneously.

Block parquet, three-level parquet („floating floor”)
• The block parquet should not be glued to the base because thanks to the Lock(Click) system the blocks can be joined to each other without glue. The 2 – 3 mm thick cork insulation or polyethylene film should be placed under the parquet. For the worm floor one may use corrugated paper. The block parquet does not need to be varnished because it has already been processed at the factory. This makes the mounting easier and lowers the expenses. The block parquet may be laid by an amateur too. In this case one should follow the guide regarding the “Black floor” preparation and parquet purchase (one should avoid the low-quality fakes).

Parquet floor care
• The vanished parquet floor should cleaned regularly using a vacuum cleaner. The stains should be cleaned with a damp cloth. The vanished parquet floor must be waxed using the water-emulsion wax (this can be purchased at parquet shops) at least once per every three months or more frequently under high load conditions and during damp seasons. Any moisture (coffee, water, …) may not be on the floor surface for a long period of time or otherwise deformation is possible (the boards may swell, change their shape or color). It is not recommended to wear shoes while walking on the parquet because this may lead to some mechanical damage. A rapid temperature change is not recommended because this may lead to board extension or compression which will result in cracks. The temperature should be between +16 and +25 oC. The oiled parquet care should be performed the same way as varnished parquet care. The only difference is that one should use the wax intended for the oiled floors.